Is a large network of ancient pilgrim routes
stretching across Europe and coming together at
the tomb of St. James (Santiago in Spanish) in
Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain.
Is a large network of ancient pilgrim routes
stretching across Europe and coming together at
the tomb of St. James (Santiago in Spanish) in
Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain.
CAMINO 2: Portuguese Coastal Route, 18 – 30 July 2024
Day 1: Porto to Povao de Varzim, 32km
The plan was to do Camino 2 with University buddies. And as it turned out, I ended up starting on this second pilgrimage alone.
Today the first day(seven years after the first Camino) was brutal. Although relatively fit (been doing my three times a week, 5km run for the past 3 months) I was not walking fit as my dearest Big Sister forewarned.
I am hoping to get better and stronger as I track forward. The next three days will see me cover about 110km of the 215km route.
I had mixed emotions with the reality of doing this Camino solo, but once I got to Porto I soon realized that the stars, synchronicity and my guides/ancestors had destined that I do this one alone. Where the first Camino was a conclusion of a chapter in my life, this second Camino is certainly the consummation and confirmation of a new start I had embraced and embarked on 18 months ago.
Walking the Camino gives you invaluable time to reflect and put your thoughts, emotions, choices and actions (past, present and future) into perspective.
Day 1: Porto to Povao de Varzim, 32km
Doing the
Camino
CAMINO 2: Portuguese Coastal Route, 18 – 30 July 2024
Day 1: Porto to Povao de Varzim, 32km
The plan was to do Camino 2 with University buddies. And as it turned out, I ended up starting on this second pilgrimage alone.
Today the first day(seven years after the first Camino) was brutal. Although relatively fit (been doing my three times a week, 5km run for the past 3 months) I was not walking fit as my dearest Big Sister forewarned.
I am hoping to get better and stronger as I track forward. The next three days will see me cover about 110km of the 215km route.
I had mixed emotions with the reality of doing this Camino solo, but once I got to Porto I soon realized that the stars, synchronicity and my guides/ancestors had destined that I do this one alone. Where the first Camino was a conclusion of a chapter in my life, this second Camino is certainly the consummation and confirmation of a new start I had embraced and embarked on 18 months ago.
Walking the Camino gives you invaluable time to reflect and put your thoughts, emotions, choices and actions (past, present and future) into perspective.
Day 1: Porto to Povao de Varzim, 32km
DAY 1
The Start.
DAY 1
The Finish
Day 2
Povao de Varzim to Esposende, 20km
The Day 2 walk was a free style type of walk which started with a Cock and Bull story (see image below) and ended in a misty forest near a beach where the furthest one could see was a mere 10meters or so.
Day 2
Povao de Varzim to Esposende, 20km
The Start
The Finish
It took me some 7km to recover from the C&B or the free styling and find the right path. Oh boy was I glad I did, for the first time on the walk I encountered fellow pilgrims; a rather vocal but pleasant group of Americans, a hurried business like Swiss (from the Flag on their rucksacks) couple and a few European young females doing their thing. With the Camino you are never alone even if you are. The shorter 5hrs or 20km walk also made up for an easier day all around.
Esposende to Viana do Castelo, 25km
Water, water everywhere! Today was a rain filled day with some spot of occasional sunshine, although one felt the sun through the thick mist rather than actually see it. I am happy I was prepared for the rain to some extent, what with my Waterproof ‘big name brand’ jacket, a recommendation from the Hiking Shop in Porto. At least it was as functional as it was fashionable.
Apparently water can at times be a good sign, especially when it is a positive force, as it may signify cleansing, nourishment and purification amongst other things. So I gladly welcomed the wash down or was it a wash away? Anyway I am good with either.
As I set my sight on my day’s destination it occurred to me that the actual highlight of the day was not only the cleansing water. Remarkably so, my track today started with a walk across a bridge and ended with a walk across another bridge.
Esposende to Viana do Castelo, 25km
Water, water everywhere! Today was a rain filled day with some spot of occasional sunshine, although one felt the sun through the thick mist rather than actually see it. I am happy I was prepared for the rain to some extent, what with my Waterproof ‘big name brand’ jacket, a recommendation from the Hiking Shop in Porto. At least it was as functional as it was fashionable.
So be a bridge where you are and can be.
Viana do Castelo to V P do Ancora, 18,6km
Today’s topic presented itself a few paces into my walk, when I came across an America couple.
The first thing I noticed was that the American gentleman was frustratingly looking and using his mobile to check today’s path out of town.
The one key thing about the Camino is that it is well sign posted or should I say marked. And there is a definite method and structure to the signage system, or at least that is what I think, for if it was not, the Camino would not be the phenomenon that it is. My simple rule of thumb to find and keep to my path is; i constantly look on the left and right, look down in front of me and most importantly I always look up and ahead for a sign on an approaching pole or wall. So it is Left, Right, Down and Up Ahead.
Often times with the Camino the other important sign is your fellow pilgrim or the ‘Bridge’ you built a day or two ago.
Steffen and Line.
Issac and Lynette
Thanks to Issac and Lynette from Dallas Texas, USA for their inspiration. I am glad that we caught up on the walk and got formally introduced to each other.
Day 5
V P do Ancora to A Guarda 14,61km
Having said Goodbye to Portugal and crossing over to Spain earlier this afternoon. It occurred to me that perhaps I must write about Portugal, alas I quickly realized that I had not seen enough to write meaningfully and more inclusively. So in keeping with the length of today and tomorrow’s daily walks, I thought it more appropriate to share the a few things I (and hopefully you) never knew about Portugal;
1. Chicken Peri Peri is not a Portuguese national dish. Despite what Nando’s may want us to believe.
2. Portugal / Portuguese is not a homogeneous country/ language it is made up of over 20 nationalities and dialects. Raging from Africans (Mozambique and Angola), Arabic Moors, Brazilian (South America), Scandinavian Vikings, and many other nationalities that were shipwrecked on their shores and decided to stay.
3. Portuguese is one of the most spoken languages in the world, what with 9 countries having it as their national language.
4. Portugal is an open and friendly country, and they are doing even more to attract and promote citizenship via investment. This I believe is to a large extent due to the historical population diversity and mix as per point 3 above.
I felt welcome and comfortable In Portugal, I think I may consider making it my second home.
– primary school teacher who showed me the quickest way across to Spain.
The walk today was short and functional ( I had to get to where I was headed), and the dominance and forever presence of the majestic North Atlantic Ocean, with its splashing waves and distant vistas, dwarfed everything else.
Christine from Netherlands, a very courageous and determined pilgrim who has continued her walk one step at a time, carrying an injury she sustained on her very first day. I also came across the three fast (fast walking I meant) young European girls from Day 2, who just reminded me of my daughters. I could see Funi, Aziza and Onele doing the Camino, on their own, very soon.
I would welcome any suggestions as to why this is the case. I do have my own opinion and it is part of my unproven theory, as already stated, thus I will for now keep it to myself.
The unproven theory from Day 6 will remain exactly that, unproven. Today it was well and truly challenged, as the first fellow pilgrims I encountered this morning on my way to the greatly anticipated Biaona (more about that in a few paragraphs) were 3 young men, one of whom looked like he was in trouble.
If all else fails, I will just have to adjust and or manage my expectations.
Day 8: Biaona to Vigo 26,06km
In celebration of reaching slightly beyond the half way mark, I thought to revisit and reshare a post from our Camino 1 in 2017.
Day 10: Vilalba to Santa Leo Cadia
JULY 15, 2017
Guess what? We are indeed stronger and fitter than when we started two Sundays ago. We did 61km without breaking a sweat, we arrived at both destinations with time to spare. Today (day 11) we did 33km with only a 30minutes break, courtesy of my friend and fellow pilgrim, Advocate Tsholanku. Who a few days back nearly strangled me for making him walk 4km over a mountain, to that one horse town. Walking the two longest distances, one after the other, got me thinking about things the Camino teaches you. Here are a few I could think of as I was walking today;
1. Practice makes perfect. It does indeed take seven days to form or change a habit. Walk, walk, walk, eat, sleep, wake up, walk walk, walk, eat, sleep, wake up, walk, walk, walk, eat, sleep….repeat 7 times and it becomes what and who you are.
2. Focus, commitment,repetition and consistency begets results.
3. Stick to the goal you have in mind.
4. To achieve anything the only movement you need make is forward.(from the Advocate)
5. What seems far, once undertaken, becomes within reach.
6. With the Camino you are never ahead or behind anyone. So stick to your plan.
7. When the objective is clear and shared, strangers become friends. And many we did make along the way.
8. What you see ( the distance) and feel (the sore feet and back) are less important than what you get done or achieve ( reaching your next destination).
Today we are 60km from Santiago our final stop and ultimate destination. It feels unreal!. As they say in this part of the world Buen Camino!
Day 9: Vigo to Cesantes 19,36 km
Following the disappointment of Baiona, where I failed to spot any Ferrari or Lamborghini and Vigo, which I found Camiño and Pilgrim unfriendly, Day 9 was a welcome surprise and gift.
Today I walked with ‘My Peers’ (O’Ntanga).
This brought with it not only a change in the average pilgrim age (55+) but also a change in pace, conversation and renewed energy.
As I made my way out of Vigo I met with Chris and Monica from Detroit Michigan, and along the way we linked up with Darren Robinson from Luxembourg via England.
Darren
Doing the Camino
-Chris and Monica
Doing the Camino
Mxolisi Evan Tyawa / Doing the
/ Camino
Even if it is the last 100km, on any route to Santiago, which is the minimum you need to get your Compostela.
Many thanks to Chris, Monica and Darren.
Cesantes to Pontevedra 19,36 km
It looks like I have struck on or found a different stride and tone for the final leg of this Camino 2. I am also now walking fit, no more sore muscles and joints during and after the walk.
The last 6 days, if yesterday and today are good indicators , are probably going to be spent meeting and walking in the company of my age mates, as well as pilgrims (now friends I suppose) I met on day 1 and 2.
No two or even three days are the same on the Camino ever. Today I traveled the whole stage on my own. It was a walk done in total contemplative solitude and was a welcome opportunity to work through some unfinished ideas and unprocessed thoughts from the first 7 days.
So as they say the ‘end is nigh’ or is it the ‘end is in sight’.
Today I walked the whole stage with Maryanne the ‘road runner’ from Chile and Ana ‘my patient Spanish teacher’ from Madrid, two long time university friends. I hope my ‘absent’ university buddies are reading and noting this. Friends walk the Camino together.
Befitting the start, I attended Holy Mass to round off my daily walk and stage. All in all a sanctified and quiet day, as Sunday’s are supposedly meant to be.
And then, it was only 25km to the finish line.
11 days ago when I set out to walk this leg of the Camino, I had such apprehension. The prospect of doing this solo, loomed large in my head. I however had set my mind to doing this, the moment i stepped onto that plane to Porto.
Looking back, It turns out that the concern was actually the fuel that I needed to start.
To keep going however, the people I met along the way, some who called from home and the beautiful welcoming places I stayed in, were the top up fuel that got me this far. And as such I would like to acknowledge and thank all my Camino 2 people. In no particular order of importance, my gratitude and appreciation goes to;
1. Steffen and Line from Denmark 🇩🇰
2. Francis and Innes from Madrid and their kids
3. Lynette and Isaac from Dallas Texas
4. Joaquin Miranda from Viana do Castello
5. The Guy from Guatemala. He never hanged around for us to be introduced, he was in such a hurry, i last saw him 9 days ago.
6. Chris and Monica from Florida USA.
7. Darren Robinson from Luxembourg via England
8. Maryanne the ‘road runner’ from Chile.
9. Anna ‘my Spanish teacher’ from Madrid.
10. Dennis and Carolyn Cosso, from Los Angeles, California. And their entourage.
11. All the young people who ‘agreed’ that I take pics for the blog, Including Kudrat from Belgium.
12. Micheal Monyokolo for checking on me regularly.
13. The O’Brian and PLDDT teams for being there on the other end always.
14. My siblings, nieces and nephews for staying with me through our WhatsApp group.
15. Finally and more importantly my daughters ( Funi, Aziza and Onele) who walked vicariously with me, through all the young people I met along the way. Girls you are up next, Camino 3 is around the corner, so get ready.
Follow us